A brassiere or bra is a foundation garment for women which supports and covers the breasts.

Need for brassieres
The female breasts have very little internal support, being composed largely of adipose tissue. It is believed that the primary anatomical support for the breast is provided by the Cooper's ligaments, with the skin covering the breasts offering some additional support. However, this anatomical support is usually insufficient to hold the breasts up (especially in older women), and to prevent movement of the breasts, which can cause pain and discomfort. Thus, the primary reason for wearing a brassiere or similar foundation garment is to provide external support for the breasts, increasing comfort and mobility.

Bras are believed by some to help preserve the youthful shape of breasts (which naturally sag as women grow older), an opinion which, unsurprisingly, is promoted by bra manufacturers. However, there is some doubt over this amongst the medical community, and while a woman may choose to wear a bra for comfort or for social reasons, there is no conclusive evidence to support the notion that a woman's breasts will sag lower over her lifetime if she doesn't wear a bra. [1]

Some medical professionals believe that wearing a bra can actually increase breast sagging later in life because the chest muscles that support breasts are used less and atrophy from lack of use. Health benefits of breast motion and sagging have also been suggested but not substantiated — for example, some researchers claim that breast movement, which is restricted by a brassiere, stimulates the lymphatic system and helps remove toxins from the body [2].

History

The concept of covering or restraining the breasts dates back to 6,500 years ago in Greece. Minoan women on the island of Crete 4,000 years ago wore garments that partially supported yet revealed their bare breasts. A band of cloth known as an apodesmos, or mastodeton was worn by ancient Greek women to bind down the breasts for exercise in those city-states that supported women's sports, such as Sparta. Also, a belt could be fastened over a simple tunic-like garment or undergarment, just below the breasts, in order to provide some support. Another word for a breast-band or belt was strophion.

One of the earliest depictions of something closely resembling a modern bra, an 1881 illustration which claims to show an early 19th century garmentA bra-like device to give a symmetrical rotundity to the breasts was patented (nr 24,033) in 1859 by Henry S. Lesher of Brooklyn, New York; although it is recognisably a bra, the design looks uncomfortable by current standards. In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented the first modern bra, a two-piece undergarment called le bien-être (the well-being). The lower part was a corset for the waist, the upper supporting the breasts by means of shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a soutien-gorge ("breast-supporter", using a euphemism for breast that usually means "throat"), the name by which bras are still known in France. Cadolle's business is still going strong. [3]

The brassiere was at first an alternative to the corset, for negligée or at-home wear, or for those women who had medical or political objections to corsets. However, after the straight-fronted corset became fashionable in the early 1900's, a brassiere or "bust supporter" became a necessity for full-busted women, as the straight-fronted corset did not offer as much support and containment as the Victorian styles. Early brassieres were either wrap-around bodices or boned, close-fitting camisoles (both worn over the corset), and were designed to hold the bust in and down, the corset providing upwards support.

In the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob was granted a U.S. patent (nr 1,115,674) in the newly created patent category for "brassieres", in 1914. She was aided in this work by her French maid, Marie. Their invention was a lightweight, backless bra suitable for wear under low-cut evening dresses. Although it was not the first bra to be commercially produced in the U.S., the use of the name "brassiere" (rather than the older term "bust supporter") has led to the misconception that Jacob's invention was the first bra, or the first American bra; in fact, U.S. bra patents appear in the 1860's. After making and selling a few hundred of her brassieres under the name "Caresse Crosby", Jacobs sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company in Bridgeport, Connecticut, for $1,500 (or over $25,600 in today's money). Warner's did manufacture the "Crosby" bra, but it does not seem to have been a popular style and was eventually discontinued. [4] Later commentators would assert that Warner's made millions off of Jacob's invention, but this appears to be untrue.

As corsets became lower during the later 1910's, the bust received less upwards support and a low, sloping bustline became fashionable. Brassieres from the late 1910's and early 1920's were merely slightly shaped bandeaus, holding the bust in and down by means of a clip attached to the corset. This culminated in the "boyish" silhouette of the early 1920's, with little bust definition.

In 1922, Ida Rosenthal, a seamstress at the small New York City dress shop, Enid Frocks, along with shop owner Enid Bissett and husband William Rosenthal, changed the look of women's fashion. The "boyish figure" then in style downplayed women's natural curves through the use of a bandeaux brassiere. Their innovation, designed to make their dresses look better on the wearer, consisted of increasing the shaping of the bandeaux bra to enhance and support women's breasts: hence the name "Maidenform", [5] [6] a play on the name of an earlier company, "Boyishform".[7] A later innovation was the development of cup sizing for brassieres. The company they founded became the Maidenform manufacturing company. [8]

In 1943, Howard Hughes designed a cantilevered brassiere for Jane Russell for her appearance in the movie The Outlaw, although Russell later asserted that she never wore it. [9] This "lifts and separates" design went on to influence later commercial brassieres.

During the Civil Rights Movement, as the "monokini" came into play in Europe and free love became more popular in the United States, many women publicly discarded their bras as an anti-sexist act of female liberation. The act of "bra-burning", however, in which crowds of women would make a trash-can bonfire, line up, and take off and discard their bras one by one into the fire, was not a widespread practice, although it did get quite a bit of video coverage from the mass media at the time. [10]

Bra sizes

The size of a bra is commonly described by two values: the band size (a number based on the circumference of the chest at the bust, excluding the breasts), and the cup size (given by a letter, and relating to the volume of the breasts themselves). The size of women's breasts is often expressed in terms of bra size.

Bras are commonly available in cup sizes A-DD, and one generally has to go to a specialist lingerie store to find larger cup size bras. The sizing of cup sizes can be confusing, since some manufacturers use multiple letters such as AAA or FF. A common cup size system amongst European manufacturers, in order of increasing size, is: AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-J. It is important to note that the actual size of bra cup varies with band size. As an example, the cup in a 34B is smaller than the cup used in a 38B.

Any system for determining bra size is not without its problems, and the only real way to get the right size is by trial and error or more effectively to visit a certified bra-fitting specialist, usually found in better quality stores. Unfortunately, as is the case with most clothing, not all bras are made alike. Women find that different manufacturers' bras fit differently. However, there are several methods which may be used to provide an approximate size by measuring alone. Bra sizing systems differ widely between countries, and also between companies. Some countries use the metric measurement system rather than the Imperial system used in the UK and U.S, Australia uses dress size instead of band size.

Band size is usually determined by measuring body circumference under the breasts and then adding a specified amount to account for the fact that the ribcage is generally wider at the height of the breasts than at the point at which one measures. An alternative method to determine band size involves measuring under the arms and across the top of the breasts. In the United States, various manufacturers and boutiques recommend adding different numbers to the measured circumference to determine band size, generally from 4 to 6 inches. A further complication is that some manufacturers say that when the under the bust measurement is 35" (89 cm) or more, only 3" (7.5 cm) should be added to determine the band size. Still others, particularly stores that specialize in specialty sizes, do not recommend adding anything to the size, as the band is meant to fit around the area measured, not higher.

The cup size is worked out from the difference between the band size and a measurement of the chest circumference over the fullest part of the breasts. A common, though not universal, method suggested by many manufacturers is that a difference of 1" (2.5 cm) requires an A cup size; 2" (5 cm) a B cup, and so on (see below).

Sister size

It is stated that sizes have a "sister size." When the size one is fitted to wear is unavailable or not fitting properly, it is possible to try the sister size, by moving up one band size and down one cup size to have an equivalent fit (for example: 32C to 34B). This works because by decreasing the cup size the band size must be increased to compensate. This equivalency is true to some extent. Many people are able to wear both sizes. However, there are slight differences in the cup and band that may prove problematic as the bra begins to wear and the sister size may not be as comfortable or provide proper support. The support of a bra comes from the band and should never come from the straps (straps are there to provide a lifted shape), and a larger band can put too much stress on the shoulders by shifting the weight to be supported to the straps.

Determining bra size

One common (but usually inaccurate) way of determining bra size is described below (all values measured in inches).

First measure tightly around the torso, directly underneath the breasts. This is the frame size. To calculate the band size, add 5" if the frame size is an odd number, or 6" if it is even (the difference takes account of the fact that bras are only available in even sizes).

Next measure directly across the fullest part of the breasts over the nipples, while standing straight with arms to the side. This is the bust size. The cup size is then the difference between the bust size and the band size, converted into a letter using the following table:

For example, if a woman's frame size is measured at 30", then 6" would be added to give a band size of 36".
If her bust size measured 40", that gives a difference of 40" - 36" = 4", which converts to a "D" cup size.
So her final bra size would be 36D.

It has been observed that measuring systems like this put women in bras that are too big in the band, and too small in the cup. The majority of bra bands run true to size (as in, a size 36 band measures, when stretched, 36 inches).

Still, other bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on, and learning to recognize a proper fit, is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much like with shoes.

Construction and Fit

A bra consists of cups for the breasts, a center panel, and a band running around the body under the bust; unless it is a strapless bra it will also have a shoulder strap at each side. It is typically made of a fabric such as cotton or lace, with the cups for the breasts given shape by underwires or plastic reinforcements. The bra is usually fastened with a hook fastener on the band, typically at the back, but in some bras the fastener is situated at the front, in between the cups. Some bras contain padding, designed to improve comfort and provide a more flattering shape — this is sometimes in the form of silicone gel packs. Push up bras, designed to enhance cleavage, usually contain padding.

It is important that a woman's bra fits correctly, both to ensure a flattering shape and to avoid discomfort. Back pain is particularly common amongst large breasted women who wear bras which offer insufficient support. In extreme cases, such discomfort can lead to a woman seeking breast reduction surgery. It is estimated from the result of surveys that up to 70% of women in the United Kingdom wear incorrectly fitting bras, which is perhaps due to a lack of understanding of determining bra size, as well as the difficulty in obtaining larger bras.

It is a common misconception that the shoulder straps should bear the weight of the breasts, in fact the strap around the body should provide most of the support, it should be firm but comfortable.

When viewed from the side, the strap that runs around the body should be horizontal and should not ride up at the back at all.
The underwires at the front should lie flat against the rib cage and should not dig in, rub or poke out at the front.
The breasts should be enclosed by the cups and there should be a smooth line where the fabric at the top of the cup ends.
There should not be a ridge or bulging over the top or sides of the cups, even with a 'balconette' style or lower cut shape.
Correct bra size depend on factors including bra manufacturer, and change as the size of her breasts fluctuates with weight gain/loss and stage in the menstrual cycle.

Breast pads or "falsies" are sometimes worn underneath the bra to give the appearance of larger breasts — this requires that the wearer wear a larger size of bra than actually required by her breasts.

Types of bra

A range of styles of brassieres exist, to be worn in a variety of situations. The degrees of support varies between styles, with some being designed from a highly practical point of view, and others to provide a deliberately sexually alluring form.

Built-in bras, sometimes known as shelf bras, are a supportive brassiere like structure on the inside of another garment, such as a swimsuit or tank top, which provides support for the bust without the need for a separate bra. In most such garments, these consist of a horizontal elasticated fabric strip, although some do have cups and underwires as with other bra types.
Full support bras are a type of bra designed to offer good support for the whole of the breasts, and as such are a typical, practical bra for everyday wear. Balconette or demi bras are similar, but have lower cut cups, covering approximately half the breasts. These offer less support, but enable low cut garments to be worn without the bra being seen.
Mastectomy bras are designed so that a prosthesis may be held in place and are intended for women who have lost one or both breasts in mastectomy treatment for breast cancer.
Maternity bras are slightly different from nursing bras though the terms are sometimes used interchangeably. Maternity bras are designed such that they can be expanded to adjust as the breasts increase in size over the course of a pregnancy.
Minimizer bras are designed to de-emphasize the bust, in particular, of large-breasted women. Minimizers, by compressing and shaping the breasts, help to create the illusion of being a cup size or two smaller.
Nursing bras are designed to help make breastfeeding simpler by allowing for easy access to the nipple. Traditionally, nursing bras are made with flaps of fabric over the cup which can be unclasped and pulled down to access the breast. Even with the "flap" pulled down, the cup of the bra supports the breast. There are also no flap versions made of stretchable fabric which can pulled to the side when it is feeding time. Underwire versions of nursing bras are discouraged because they can constrict the breast and can cause either blocked ducts or mastitis though underwire versions are readily available.
Peephole bras have cups which loosely cover the breasts, but holes around the nipples. These kinds of bras do not give the breasts much support, and are generally intended for wearing in sexual situations.
Push-up bras, are a type of bra that has additional padding, and is structured so that the breasts are lifted and the cleavage emphasised. The best known brand of push up bra is the Wonderbra.
Shelf bras take the balconette concept to its logical conclusion, with cups covering only the bottom part of the breast, putting the nipples and breasts on display.
Sports bras or jogging bras are for women to wear during exercise. They are more sturdy in their construction than regular bras, and offer greater support for the chest, thus increasing comfort and reducing the chance of damage to the ligaments of the chest during high impact exercises such as jogging. They are usually made of a stretchable, absorbant fabric such as Lycra, and may be designed to draw perspiration away from the skin to reduce irritation. Many women, particularly those with large breasts, find sports bras essential for exercise, as breasts bouncing can cause pain and discomfort, as well as embarrassment. Some sports bras are meant to be worn as outerwear.
Strapless bras, with no shoulder straps are designed for wearing with clothes that reveal the shoulders, such as halterneck tops. Convertible bras have straps which may be detached and rearranged in different ways depending on the outfit. Alternatives to regular straps for strapless bras are beaded bra straps or clear plastic bra straps, that provide support and style.
T-shirt bras are designed without raised seams, so that a tight t-shirt may be worn without the bra being visible.
Training bras are for girls who have begun to develop breasts but have yet to develop enough to allow for a standard sized bra to fit properly. They are of simple construction and offer little, if any, support. Training bras were invented in the 1950s in response to the desire of adolescent and pre-adolescent girls to "fit in" amongst their more developed peers. Some observers believe that training bras serve no functional purpose, and are exploitative in that they allow entrepreneurs to benefit from, and even encourage, precocious sexuality in young girls. [11] Still other recognize developing tissue as sensitive and, at times, in need of coverage in order to maintain comfort.

Culture

Statistics show the average American woman today owns six bras- one of which is a strapless bra and one a color other than white.

Indeed in many Western cultures, it is often considered more noteworthy not to wear a bra. Much of the TV presenter Charlie Dimmock's fame may be attributed to her reputation for gardening without a bra. [12]

Although similar in appearance to the upper part of a bikini, it is not generally considered suitable to expose one's brassiere in public in western cultures, even partially, and to do so is usually considered sexually provocative. A famous example of a bra being exposed for shock value is the conical bra outfit (designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier) worn by Madonna on her 1990 tour.

Even considering this relative cultural taboo, however, full display of a woman in only her bra is still vastly more socially acceptable than a woman's open display of her bare breasts. As an example of the relative acceptability of bra-only activity, bras have recently been used by operations like breast cancer charities to raise money, either by sponsored walks by women wearing exposed bras [13], or selling bras owned or decorated by celebrities.

The oft-repeated story that the brassiere was invented by a man named Otto Titzling (phonetically, the humorous tit-sling) who lost a lawsuit with one Phillip de Brassiere ("fill up de' brassiere") is an example of an urban myth [14]. Both names are used in a humorous song sung by Bette Midler.

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