A corset is a garment worn to mold and shape the torso into a desired shape for
aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it, or with
a more lasting effect).
Both men and women have worn – and still wear – corsets.
Uses
The most common use of corsets is to slim the body and make it conform to a
fashionable silhouette. For women this most frequently emphasises a curvy figure,
by reducing the waist, and thereby exaggerating the bust and hips. However,
in some periods, corsets have been worn to achieve a tubular straight-up-and-down
shape, which involves minimising the bust and hips.
For men, corsets are more customarily used to slim the figure. However, there
was a period from around 1820 to 1835 when an hourglass figure (a small, nipped-in
look to the waist) was also desirable for men; this was sometimes achieved by
wearing a corset.
Woman having her corset laced tight, from an 1899 stereoscope card. Original
caption: Reducing the Surplus. "Now, Pull Hard!" A small waist between
a full bust and ample hips, such is the shibboleth of fashion, and the poor
girl that relies on her figure to make a good impression, is sorely put to it,
if nature has denied her the shape of a wasp or if she has not learned to rely
on physical exercise to model her frame. A vigorous walk of ten miles a day,
supplemented by ten minutes of lung gymnastics, would do wonders for her.An
overbust corset encloses the torso, extending from just under the arms to the
hips. An underbust corset begins just under the breasts and extends down to
the hips. Some corsets extend over the hips and, in very rare instances, reach
the knees. A shorter kind of corset, which covers the waist area (from low on
the ribs to just above the hips), is called a 'waist cincher'. A corset may
also include garters to hold up stockings (alternatively a separate garter belt
may be worn for that).
Normally a corset supports the visible dress, and spreads the pressure from
large dresses, such as the crinoline and bustle. Sometimes the corset has been
supported by a corset cover.
Waist reduction
By wearing a tightly-laced corset for extended periods, known as tightlacing,
men and women can learn to tolerate extreme waist constriction and reduce their
natural waist size. Tightlacers usually aim for 40 to 43 centimeter (16 to 17
inch) waists. Until 1998, the Guinness Book of World Records listed Ethel Granger
as having the smallest waist on record at 13". After 1998, the category
changed to "smallest waist on a living person" and Cathie Jung took
the title with a 15" waist. Other women, such as Polaire and Spook, also
have achieved such reductions.
These are extreme cases. Corsets were and are usually designed for support,
with freedom of body movement an important consideration in their design. Present
day corset-wearers usually tighten the corset just enough to reduce their waists
by 5 to 10 centimeters (2 to 4 inches); it is very difficult for a slender woman
to achieve as much as 15 centimeters (6 inches), although larger women can do
so more easily.
Modern history
The corset fell from fashion in the 1920s in Europe and America, replaced by
girdles and elastic brassieres, but survived as an article of costume. Originally
an item of lingerie, the corset has become a popular item of outerwear in the
fetish, BDSM and goth subcultures.
In the fetish and BDSM literature, there is often much emphasis on tightlacing.
In this case, the corset may still be underwear rather than outerwear.
There was a brief revival of the corset in the late 1940s and early 1950s,
in the form of the waist cincher. This was used to give the hourglass figure
dictated by Christian Dior's 'New Look'. However, use of the waist cincher was
restricted to haute couture, and most women continued to use girdles. This revival
was brief, as the New Look gave way to a less dramatically-shaped silhouette.
Since the late 1980s, the corset has experienced periodic revivals, which have
usually originated in haute couture and which have occasionally trickled through
to mainstream fashion. These revivals focus on the corset as an item of outerwear
rather than underwear. The strongest of these revivals was seen in the Autumn
2001 fashion collections and coincided with the release of the film Moulin Rouge!,
the costumes for which featured many corsets.
The majority of garments sold as corsets during these recent revivals cannot
really be counted as corsets at all. While they often feature lacing and boning,
and generally mimic a historical style of corset, they have very little effect
on the shape of the wearer's body.
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